At Saigon Market, the Vietnamese New Year was ushered in with a feast and wishes for a happy, healthy and prosperous Year of the Dog.
Chúc Mừng Năm Mớ
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Hung and Phung Lam came to the United States in the 1980s as refugees from Vietnam. Sponsored by a man in Georgia, they learned English and found work. After owning a Chinese restaurant in Greenville, the Lams opened Saigon Market in 1995. Though the store is now owned by their children, Ruby and Jason, the whole family, including Ruby’s husband and an uncle, works there.
February 18, Tet, the Vietnamese New Year, was celebrated at the market. The altar displayed at the front of the store was decked out in the bright reds and yellows symbolic of the season. An entire roast pig lay waiting, while the crowd gathered there to celebrate clamored for a taste. Bowls were filled with symbolic fruit – coconut, papaya and mango – the three, when said together in Vietnamese, form the words “enough to spend” – a wish that there will be enough money to last the whole year.
But first, tien mung tuoi, the New Year’s tradition of handing out red envelopes to the children to wish them luck and prosperity in the coming year. The family lined up, patiently waiting. Customers coming into the store were able to pick their own luck from the tree standing on the altar.
And then it was time to eat. The pig, juicy on the inside and fantastically crispy on the outside, was served with bread. Sticky, sweet rice was eaten with a bahn tieu, essentially a hollow donut sprinkled with sesame seeds. Pandan rice and mung bean cake added color and sweetness to the table.
While Tet is celebrated every year at Saigon Market, the aisles of the market are lined with a million exotic reasons to visit throughout the year. The store sells Vietnamese, Filipino, Japanese, Korean, Indonesian, African and Micronesian foods. Vietnamese bakery items and roast pig and duck are delivered from Atlanta every Thursday. Products are selected by word of mouth. Ruby says if a customer comes in looking for something they don’t have, they’ll try to find it.
In twenty-three years, the Lams have expanded the store three times but have closed the store only twice – for the wedding day of each child. Twenty-three years of working together as a family, providing the flavors and scents of home to their Vietnamese community and to all of Greenville.